Trophy Field Care.

Here are a few tips and pointers to help you preserve your future trophy mount from the field to you’re trophy room. Things you need to know and do to help give the taxidermist,
the best specimen possible to work with. 

Head and Neck shots should always be avoided whenever possible.  Shooting a charging black bear is one thing, but shooting a whitetail in the face is another. Dragging and 4 wheelers are very detrimental on big game mounts in the shoulder areas as it removes top hair and hair completely from the shoulders.   
Birds should be shot with the smallest shot particles possible for the situation and species.  Birds should be frozen whole in plastic bags with sufficient protection for long tail feathers by carding them if necessary.  If you wrap each foot in a small wet paper towel and then wrap them with plastic wrap, they will stay perfect and in excellent condition for at least 10-12 months.  For wild turkey heads, wrap the head in a small wet washcloth then in a small bag over the head, it will prevent freezer burn and moisture loss in the snood and wattles. Also, don't forget to do the feet.  Wrapping: Never put a warm animal or skin in plastic bags, as this will cause rapid bacterial growth resulting in loss of hair or feathers. Burlap bags are excellent in the field if you are in the high country and are away from a locker or meat processor.  It will allow air to circulate around your animal, let fluid escape and it will stay cool as well as keeping the flies off your trophy. North American shipments of salted, dried hide should be shipped in woven, burlap bags and put in boxes if necessary to allow fresh air in to help prevent spoilage. Freezing: When putting these animals in the freezer, you should place the animal on a plastic bag so they won't stick to the freezer.  After the animal is frozen, then the animal can be placed into a bag and closed, but not before. Fish should be kept alive or on ice (not in ice water) until they can be wrapped in a wet towel or cloth and frozen in a plastic bag.

Fur-Bearing Animals:
Basic Skinning: 
Skin an animal as soon as possible. When in doubt leave more skin than you think necessary. Keep skin as cool as you can, and freeze if possible. 
Things to Avoid: 
· NEVER make any cuts in the throat 
· NEVER put a rope around the neck 
· NEVER drag the animal over any sharp objects that may cut the hair 
· NEVER allow the skin to be exposed to direct sunlight or any other heat source. 
Freezing Procedure: 
· Fold hide in half one time with fur in and skin out (if it is a large skin, it may be folded in half again) 
· Seal entire hide in plastic bag 
· Freeze skin flat 
· NEVER roll skin up in a ball and freeze it, or salt it before freezing 
If you anticipate being in a situation where you cannot keep the skin cool or get it to a taxidermist right away, then stop by our shop before you go for more information. 

Caping for a Shoulder Mount
With a sharp knife, slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at approximately the midway point of the rib cage behind the front legs. Slit the skin around the legs just above the knees. An additional slit will be needed from the back of the leg and joining the body cut behind the legs.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Peel the skin forward up to the ears and jaw exposing the head/neck junction. Cut into the neck approximately three inches down from this junction. Circle the neck, cutting down to the spinal column. After this cut is complete, grasp the antler bases, and twist the head off the neck. This should allow the hide to be rolled up and put in a freezer until transported to the taxidermist.These cuts should allow ample hide for the taxidermist to work with in mounting. Remember, the taxidermist can cut off excess hide, but he can't add what he doesn't have.
Pictures ©2000 McKenzie Taxidermy Supply